Saturday, July 4, 2009

A Special Afternoon at Malika Catholic Church


A Special Afternoon at Malika Catholic Church
July 2, 2009

A few years ago a teacher friend took our group to Malika Catholic Church for music and traditional dancing, and it has become a regular event for us. Luke Pathera, who works at MIE, is the music director there and a phenomenal traditional dancer. The choir mistress, Margaret Bamba, is also a nun as well as a teacher at Mwanje School.

This year we set off into the bush for a 40-minute fast walk with John Wesley Mwenyeheri, a teacher at Domasi Government School, leading us through the several turns that I have yet to memorize even though one year I tried to make a map. We arrived and are seated on benches in a semi-circle with the musicians and choir in the center in a circle. The musicians played a variety of drums, another set of something made from various pieces of metal, and a keyboard. This year the choir was large – an elderly man with a whistle is part of the entourage, men and boys are on one side, girls and women on the other. One girl, we learned later, is an orphan that the choir is sponsoring. I was happy that they have a woman again who can do the ululation, a sound that sends chills across my body. I love the primitive, exotic sound. They sang with Margaret leading the group. She is the most energetic, dynamic choir director I have ever seen. Her tiny, lithe body undulates to the music as she directs, and her voice is strong and clear.

Next, came a traditional dance. Luke explained that the diocese has allowed them to incorporate traditional dances into the mass so that the congregation won’t be “tempted away” by the dances in the village. This dance was with masked men with large bellies (stuffed shirts really) and was supposed to be a message about HIV/AIDS. It was comic but serious at the same time although our lack of understanding Chichewa meant we mostly understood only the slapstick comic parts. I asked Luke to dance something I had seen him do before -- an “owl” dance. This time Patrick, a young man who is a musician, joins him in a rendition I had not seen before! During the dance the choir claps rhythmically. It was magical!

The choir had brought us gifts of cassava, peas, and sugar cane, which they presented to us after we presented our gift to them. We were so touched. They said they were so happy that we have continued to come to Malika Church and that they don’t take our commitment to them for granted. The students are awed by the whole experience – tears and well wishes accompany us as they walk us part way down the road from the church. This walking of guests part way is a Malawian tradition, they told us.

On the walk back we saw a young man in dancing costume – red mask with top and skirt of dried corn husks. He posed for pictures with students – very harmless although in some rituals these dancers are to be feared.

All in all a wonderful day with old friends!